I hadn’t planned to perform Umrah that year. My ticket was already booked — Paris, a layover in Jeddah, then Jakarta to reunite with my family. It was while checking the connection times that I realized: I had 18 hours on the ground. Eighteen hours in Jeddah, forty minutes from Mecca.
That’s when the idea took root. What if I turned this layover into something greater?
The Decision, at Midnight on the Sofa
I still remember that night. My phone in one hand, my passport in the other. I was frantically searching: Is this even possible? Is it legal? Will I have enough time?
The forums were confusing, agencies were quoting €800 packages. It was while browsing a few discussion threads that I figured it out: yes, with a Saudi tourist e-visa, you can absolutely do it independently. No agency. No package. Just me, my phone, and the Nusuk app.
I submitted my e-visa application at 11 PM. It was in my inbox by 7 AM.
Arrival in Jeddah — the Shock of the Unknown
King Abdulaziz International Airport is massive. At immigration, the line was long but moved smoothly. One hour of patience, a few stamps, and I stepped out into the dry heat of Jeddah — even in March, it was already 32°C at noon.
I had packed my ihram in my carry-on. I changed in the airport toilets, awkwardly — the first time you tie these two white towels without help, it’s an exercise in humility. An older man, seeing my hesitation, smiled and adjusted the fabric with a practiced gesture. Not a single word. Just that brotherly smile that says welcome.
The Haramain train from Jeddah station: 30 minutes, clean, air-conditioned, 45 SAR. I watched the desert scroll past the window while reciting the Talbiyah softly. Labbayk Allahumma labbayk. The phrase took on a meaning I had never really grasped from reading it.
Footsteps on the Haram Marble
It’s hard to describe what you feel when you see the Kaaba for the first time. I had tried to anticipate the emotion — I had watched videos, read accounts. Nothing truly prepares you for it.
I stopped dead at the entrance of Masjid Al-Haram. People walked around me. The Kaaba was there, massive and simple at the same time, draped in its black cloth embroidered with gold, surrounded by thousands of white-clad figures moving in silence. A perpetual motion, like a beating heart.
I cried. I didn’t expect to.
Tawaf — Learning to Let Go
My first circuit was chaotic. I kept losing count, dropping the duas, and someone’s elbow made me lose my balance on the third passage. I finally closed the apps on my phone and just walked, reciting what I knew by heart, letting others set the rhythm.
By the seventh circuit, something had settled. A peace I didn’t know I needed.
The two rak’at prayer behind the Maqam Ibrahim, then the Sa’i between Safa and Marwa — the air-conditioned corridors, families with strollers, elderly people shuffling with walkers, young men running in the green lane marked for men. Everyone in the same place, for the same reason.
Tahallul and the Return to the Airport
A barber for 15 SAR, a few minutes, and the ihram was packed away. I found myself back in jeans and a t-shirt, wheeling my suitcase, looking for a taxi to catch the train. A tourist again, on the surface. But something had changed from the inside — hard to put into words, easy to feel.
I boarded my flight to Jakarta with six hours to spare. On the plane, I slept like I hadn’t slept in a long time.
What I Would Have Done Differently
- Apply for the e-visa even earlier — I was lucky it arrived in a few hours. Plan for 48–72h minimum.
- Bring sandals suitable for ihram — my cheap flip-flops nearly broke during the Sa’i.
- Stay overnight if possible — 18 hours is doable, but a night in Mecca allows for a nighttime Tawaf, much more peaceful.
- Download duas for offline use — the network inside the Haram can be unreliable.
For You, If You’re Still Hesitating
A transit Umrah is not a budget pilgrimage. It’s an opportunity that geography offers you — seizing a layover to do something immense, without disrupting your entire trip. This site exists to show you that it’s possible, that it can be organized, and that it’s worth every minute of preparation.
If you have questions about how I organized this trip — visa, train, ihram, timing — the FAQ answers most of them. And if you’re ready to take the plunge, start with your e-visa application.
May your prayers be accepted. 🧲
eSIM and connectivity for your Umrah trip:
• eSIM Arabia — unlimited data in Saudi Arabia on Airalo → (*)
Affiliate links — Amazon:
• Pure Vaseline for Ihram on Amazon → (*)
• Lightweight travel prayer mat on Amazon → (*)
• Men’s 2-piece Ihram on Amazon → (*)
Related articles on UmrahOnTheGo:
• Tawaf: 7 Circuits Around the Kaaba → (*)
• Sa’i Between Safa and Marwa → (*)
• Hotels in Mecca — Our Recommendations → (*)
Halal travel in Asia: Discover AsiaHalal — guide to Islamic destinations in Asia → (*)
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Home automation and travel: Lunarok Domotique — tech tutorials and guides → (*)